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Grey hoodies layered No Face Scream Edvard Munch’s The Scream shirt under the pastel tweed suits, a catwalk on top of an apartment building with concrete benches instead of gilt chairs, looking out over the rooftops of Marseille, France’s less manicured second city. Chanel has – in fashion speak – a New Look. In the parlance of 2024, it is in its gritty era. “If Marseille is unexpected, that’s good. We don’t want to be stuck. We need to take risks if we want to show that Chanel is for everyone,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, before the brand’s first ever show in the city. “If we were just for the happy few in the Rue Cambon [in Paris], then that would be the beginning of the end.” To be relevant and modern now means engaging with diversity and real life – even for a billion-dollar luxury brand. Coming on the heels of shows in Manchester last year and in Dakar, Senegal, in 2022, the choice of Marseille to showcase this summer’s cruise collection reflects a new strategy at Chanel. “We don’t always want to talk about the history of Chanel – we want to be about the future. Fashion is an outlook, and it is for everyone,” Pavlovsky said.
No Face Scream Edvard Munch’s The Scream shirt, hoodie, sweater, longsleeve and ladies t-shirt
And mugs have No Face Scream Edvard Munch’s The Scream shirt long been the site of political slogans and campaigning – almost everyone uses them and it’s a low-stakes way of signalling allegiance. That doesn’t mean they always hit the mark. In 2015, Ed Miliband’s Labour released one promising “Controls on immigration”, which Bush wrote was “condemned as unspeakably naff at best and outright racist at worst”. He collected it as a “great physical reminder of the problems of that election campaign”. For most British politicians, the idea that even their most ardent supporters would wear a T-shirt declaring that support is a pipe dream – “Tony Blair in 1999 is maybe the last time that you might have been able to wear a T-shirt with a British politician on it without a derogatory slogan and still pull,” says Bush – a mug is a less full-throated mouthpiece. Boris Johnson is one former prime minister who knows what’s at stake with the wrong mug, having had a single-use plastic one snatched out of his hand by an aide worried about the optics at the Tory party conference in 2019. Michael Gove finally switched to reusables for his walks into Downing Street in 2019, remarkably late for a then-environment secretary supposedly waging war on plastic.
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