May 1, 2024 AJR Show Pechanga Arena, San Diego, CA Poster shirt

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It was notable May 1, 2024 AJR Show Pechanga Arena, San Diego, CA Poster shirt to see him – a man who is sometimes thought of less as a designer and more of a “world builder” – mostly avoid his usual archetypes of Americana, out of 45 models only three wore cowboy hats while looks were more polished than preppy. University protests over the Israeli-Gaza conflict are roiling the country, while Alex Garland’s hit film, Civil War, chillingly imagines the country at war with itself. Indeed, there’s a shadow of anxiety looming over the country, both in reality and fiction, which is questioning what, exactly, it means to be American today. Lauren’s clothes typically steer clear of overt politics, but this season, which will be landing in stores around the time of the election, that felt particularly true. At 84, the designer has a lot to celebrate. He’ll no doubt get a boost from the Olympics this summer – he has been the official designer for Team USA since 2008. His dedication to prep has fascinated Gen Z, which is in the thrall of “Old Money” aesthetics, and he may, too, benefit from the recent rise of “tenniscore”, thanks in large part to the recent film Challengers. His financials reflect all this: according to his most recent quarterly earnings, reported in February, revenues were up 6%, and the company had 9% growth in sales at comparable stores. When the designer came out for his bow, in faded jeans and a western-style shirt, the crowd leapt to its feet. That was all the spectacle they needed.

May 1, 2024 AJR Show Pechanga Arena, San Diego, CA Poster shirt, hoodie, sweater, longsleeve and ladies t-shirt

Unisex shirt

Women’s shirt

Longsleeve shirt

Sweater

Hoodie

There are few items May 1, 2024 AJR Show Pechanga Arena, San Diego, CA Poster shirt of clothing as iconic – or as purely American – as the classic varsity jacket. Yet, lately, it has been making a comeback, thanks in part to Italian powerhouse Prada, who featured a chic all-leather take on it at Milan fashion week in February. It has also been a central piece in much-hyped recent collaborations between Gap and Palace, and Supreme and MM6 Maison Margiela. Not even the digital space is safe: Louis Vuitton has been selling a “phygital” – AKA an NFT (non-fungible token) – version of a varsity jacket from the Pharrell-designed FW24 collection – yours to have and not hold for nearly £7,000. Instantly recognisable thanks to its two-tone leather sleeves and boiled wool body, the varsity jacket has served as a symbol of jock masculinity in classic films such as Teen Wolf and The Breakfast Club, and was worn onstage by Michael Jackson and more recently has been adopted by celebrities from Rihanna to Bella Hadid.