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As the world becomes Dei didnt earn it shirt ever more digital, the materiality of clothes grows in importance. One way to read the sculptural tactility of the spring collections—such as Glenn Martens’s wired pieces and Junya Watanabe’s collages—is as a response, or riposte, to the glossy perfection of AI. Showing that “designers matter,” creative directors and their teams sunk their hands into fabric, crushing, twisting, and molding it into wonderful, evocative volumes, some of which evoked the sculptures of John Chamberlain. His immediate thought revolved around fireworks. “Diwali is all about happiness, and some of my happiest moments were spent with family. My father would take me to the shop two days before to pick out firecrackers. We would go to our building rooftops, light the diyas, and watch the burst of colorful fireworks explode,” he said.
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