Dallas Cowboys Stars Football logo shirt

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Grey hoodies layered Dallas Cowboys Stars Football logo shirt under the pastel tweed suits, a catwalk on top of an apartment building with concrete benches instead of gilt chairs, looking out over the rooftops of Marseille, France’s less manicured second city. Chanel has – in fashion speak – a New Look. In the parlance of 2024, it is in its gritty era. “If Marseille is unexpected, that’s good. We don’t want to be stuck. We need to take risks if we want to show that Chanel is for everyone,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, before the brand’s first ever show in the city. “If we were just for the happy few in the Rue Cambon [in Paris], then that would be the beginning of the end.” To be relevant and modern now means engaging with diversity and real life – even for a billion-dollar luxury brand. Coming on the heels of shows in Manchester last year and in Dakar, Senegal, in 2022, the choice of Marseille to showcase this summer’s cruise collection reflects a new strategy at Chanel. “We don’t always want to talk about the history of Chanel – we want to be about the future. Fashion is an outlook, and it is for everyone,” Pavlovsky said.

Dallas Cowboys Stars Football logo shirt, hoodie, sweater, longsleeve and ladies t-shirt

Unisex shirt

Women’s shirt

Longsleeve shirt

Sweater

Hoodie

I’m excited for Dallas Cowboys Stars Football logo shirt new legislation. France, as ever, is leading the way with money-back schemes for those who repair clothes and punchy proposals to tax fast fashion brands. I’m also excited for more conscious consumerism: there has been a groundswell of understanding in recent years that fashion should not be an all-you-can-eat buffet, that consumption has consequences and there is such a thing as too much. The Rule of Five campaign [which Darke pioneered], along with no-buy and 30-wear challenges are attracting increasingly large audiences. Although there is still so much work to be done around workers’ pay and conditions, as well as the biggest issue of how to tackle overproduction, I’m excited about the work on regenerative textile production. Brands like Ōshadi, in India, are leading the way with new supply chains that work in harmony with nature. Their latest Seed-to-Sew collection is made with cotton grown in rotation with other crops to promote biodiversity and draw carbon into the soil. The fact that there are brands successfully reworking the way our clothes are grown and made gives me hope.